Jeans to get designed for the better

The fashion industry is finally starting to come to the sustainability party! 

While it has long been seen as the bad boy of environmental good practice, there are signs that things are starting to change. The latest reflection of this, are the Jeans Redesign Guidelines, developed by the Ellen MacCarthur Foundation, through their Make Fashion Circular initiative.

These guidelines represent effort by fashion brands and manufacturers to transform how they produce jeans - which has long been one of the most toxic of all the clothing processes. The guidelines aim to tackle waste, pollution and harmful practices, and build on the C2C Gold Certificate that was a joint initiative between C&A and Fashion For Good.

They feature a minimum set of requirements covering durability, material health, recyclability and traceability, all based on the principles of circular economy (championed by the Ellen MacCarthur Foundation). Jeans made by using these guidelines will last longer, be easier to recycle, made in a way that is better for the environment, and for the better health of the garment workers.

Confirmed brands already involved include;

Arvind Limited, Bestseller, C&A, GAP, H&M, Hirdaramani, Lee Jeans, Mud Jeans, Outerknown and Tommy Hilfiger.

Clothing recycling specialist who have confirmed support include;

Recover, Circular Systems, HKRITA, Infinited Fiber Company, Tylon Biosciences LLC, Wolkat and Worn Again.

Francois Souchet from Make Fashion Circular, says;

"The way we produce jeans is causing huge problems with waste and pollution, but it doesn't have to be this way. By working together we can create jeans that last longer, that can be remade into new jeans at the end of their use, and are made in ways which are better for the environment and the people that make them."

The new guidelines include;

• Jeans must be able to stand up to at least 30 domestic washes
• They must have garment labels with clear information on product care
• They should be produced using cellulose fibres from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods
• The cellulose fibres must make up at least 98% of the garment (by weight)
• Metal rivets should be designed out, or kept to an absolute minimum
• They must be made free from hazardous chemicals and conventional electroplating
• Stonefinishing, Potassium Permanganate and sandblasting are all prohibited

There should also be traceability - with information included relating to each element of these guideline requirements. Brands will then be eligible to use the Jeans Redesign Logo, but all organisations will be reassessed annually, based on their compliance with reporting requirements.

The first pairs of jeans to bear this logo are due on sale in 2020.

Research:
https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/news/make-fashion-circular-launches-the-jeans-redesign
https://circom.co.uk/jeans-redesign-ellen-macarthur-foundation-launches-new-circular-economy-guidelines/
https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/make-fashion-circular-launches-jeans-redesign/2019071744295